The leaves were collected, dried, and fermented (a process that could take up to 90 days) to produce sukumo — a concentrate for dyeing. Then, the magic happens: in the solution, under the influence of bacteria, a living reaction begins, which initiates the dyeing process. In the second stage, under the influence of oxygen in water or air, the fabric acquires the desired shade of indigo
Today in Japan, there are still small enterprises that continue the traditions of natural dyeing. The center of this craft is Tokushima Prefecture, where they have been growing, producing sukumo, and continuing to dye fabrics in the same way their ancestors did for 800 years
"It's an incomparable feeling when you immerse your hands in a vat where sukumo rests at the bottom, prepared using a method that hasn’t changed for centuries. Centuries are condensed into two minutes, during which a magical process transforms white fabric or clothing into a completely new item, dyed in various shades of indigo—from sky blue to dark, like the blue of the ocean. Needless to say, garments or accessories made from such fabric become not just clothing, but true works of art with special value," Liliya Kulikova
Shibori is a Japanese technique of manual dyeing in which beautiful patterns are created on the fabric using various manipulations with the canvas: stitching, folding, compressing or twisting
Shibori came to Japan from China and although its roots date back more than a thousand years, it wasn't widely popular in Japan until the Edo period (1603−1868). This was partly due to the high cost of cotton and silk while hemp (a fibrous plant endemic to Japan) was a budget-friendly alternative. Moreover, the lower classes were forbidden to wear silk, and this prohibition contributed to the growing popularity of shibori as a method of updating and strengthening old clothes
Over time new coloring techniques have emerged, for example, tsutsugaki is the art of creating patterns using rice paste
Sibori is inextricably linked to natural Japanese indigo, which the Japanese call Ai, and the fabric dyeing process is known as Aizome. Thanks to the availability of a natural dye—the plant known as Persicaria tinctoria — this dyeing method became widespread and popular, initially among the common people and later adopted for the clothing of the aristocracy